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MI-3/4/5 - MICRO COAT FLAT/GLOSS/SATIN The Micro Coat finishes are more than just a pretty look. This is one tough finish, and a real breakthrough in a modern formulation of water reducible acrylic resin. For models that get a lot of handling this is the answer. Even the Micro Coat Flat and Micro Coat Satin continue to look like new after a great deal of handling. One of the main reasons for the Micro Coat finishes is that they are the ideal way to be sure that your Microscale Decals perform up to their potential for realism. Micro Coat Clear gives you a 'wet look' shine that replicates the new synthetic paint used on the real thing. It is also the answer for a glossy base necessary for decaling. All the Micro Coat Finishes use the same water clear acrylic resin, which is tough and flexible and adheres strongly to paint and plastic. It is rated to last at least twenty years under ordinary conditions, for models this should be forever. You can mix the Micro Coat finishes if you want something in between, and they are water thinable. Though, you should go carefully on the water, it takes only a little. If your water is not completely pure, you may want to use distilled water to maintain the clearness of the finish. Iron and other metals in the water can cause a yellow tint, copper will give a green tint. For clean up before it is completely dry, ordinary warm tap water with a little detergent works great. This product is designed to be airbrushed. If you put 3 inches of water in a bucket beside you while you are spaying you can clean up instantly by removing your paint supply and running water through the air brush by operating in the bucket while immersed in water. This is quick and easy and makes no mess. It is specially handy if your are doing a lot of spraying with time in between. You can use a brush if you desire and all the thinning procedure hold true. Work like you would do for lacquer, use single strokes in one direction and feather lightly. Do not brush in or you will leave brush strokes. There are times in touch up or detail work where you must know this technique so it is a good one for everyone to learn. MI-6 - MICRO WELD There is nothing quite like the new Micro Weld styrene solvent cement, and you will find that application, although easier, is very much different from the old. You will also find that it is much more forgiving, stronger when dry, and will not craze clear plastic or tend to warp thin plastic parts like other cements. Since it will not ""lift"" most paints, it can be used to repair models without repainting. No longer do you need to hold the parts together while applying adhesive to the seams. You will now have both hands free to position parts properly. This is the way to apply the new Micro Weld : using a small artist's brush apply a thin coat of Micro Weld to the edges of the parts to be joined. The coated edges become very tacky like contact cement. Now join the parts by pressing together. You will have a few seconds to remove or realign the parts for a perfect fit. Avoid getting cement in unwanted areas, but if you do allow a couple of minutes to dry before touching or you may mar the finish. And that's it, just allow to dry completely before painting. You now have a strong bond that is not brittle and will last. MI-7 - MICRO MASK Micro Mask is like masking tape in a bottle. Just apply it with a brush, let it dry, and cut it to any shape you want with a sharp-pointed knife. Peel out the part where you want to paint, leaving an outer stencil mask, and paint with the method of your choice. Just don't use a water-based paint over it because Micro Mask is water soluble, so use solvent-based paints. You can paint the finest detail you can cut with a knife. Unlike masking tape that can allow paint to go under it, even the most difficult designs come out sharp and clean with Micro Mask. An easy way to peal Micro Mask off, as soon as the paint is dry enough, is it to rub on a piece of masking tape and pull it quickly away. In difficult areas, you may just use water and a tooth brush and dissolve it away. MI-8 - MICRO METAL FOIL ADHESIVE Fact is that nothing looks like real metal except real metal. And Micro Foil Adhesive is a very easy and very inexpensive way to apply real metal in the form of metal foil to your models. The most common foil is ordinary household foil which most people have at home. But with a little checking around you will find that there is also stainless steel foil, copper foil, etc. The softer and thinner foils are the easiest to use, but the surface you want to metal clad is not too tough, you can use anything. Application is simple : getting a soft flat type brush that doesn't shed hair is the first thing. Polyester bristle works best. Then find a clean place where you will not pick up particles that could get under the foil and cause tiny lumps. The rest is simple. Apply as thin a coat to the back side of the foil as you can. Household foil usually has a dully and a shine side, coat the opposite of the one you want. Let dry 15 minutes or until the adhesive is clear, not milky. Try not to get anything get on the tacky Micro Metal Foil Adhesive at this time. On large surfaces you will have to use pieces of foil cut roughly to size. On smaller any piece big enough to cover will do. Wipe of the surface on the model with a tack rag or a very slightly damp clean lint free rag. Place the metal foil with the tacky side down on the area you wish to metalize as flat as you can so as not to trap air. Then using your hands, which should be clean and free of adhesive, carefully press the foil to the surface. You should start at the center and press to the outside. Start out very gently at first and then a little firmer. Don't press too hard, but the more you can do now the faster it will go. When you have done all you can do, get an ordinary cotton swab on a stick, and work over the areas you have not gotten down. When you have done all you can do this way or the job looks right, the you're done. On highly detailed models this will not be enough, and you will need some wooden tooth picks. The round kind work the best for most things. Here you will have to be most careful because if the tip of the tooth pick is too sharp, then you could gouge the soft aluminium. You will then have to replace at least a portion of damaged area. So you will do best by checking the tooth picks for sharps edges and using fine sandpaper to round the edges to fit the shapes you will be using them on. Once you get the idea you should have no trouble at all, because it is really very simple and very effective. When you have the foil conforming perfectly to the model surface you can cut the excess away with a sharp pointed hobby knife. When done right you can turn a plastic model into a real looking metal model for just a few cents.
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